![]() 08/08/2019 at 23:35 • Filed to: Honda, Why you gotta be like that, Wiring, Cut the blue and red | ![]() | ![]() |
This is the second time this is giving me some grief, so this time, I’m going to fix it. Permanently.
Basically, what happens is the switch inside the seatbelt buckle thinks that something isn’t quite right. When I am wearing my seatbelt (which I always do), the seatbelt light goes off, but for a while, the SRS light would flicker a bit, then go out. Then it went on permanently. Last time this happened, I took apart the buckle, sprayed a bunch of contact cleaner in the switch, then reset the SRS light. That worked for about two years, but it is doing it to me again. I figure that I always wear my seatbelt, so maybe I’ll just bypass the switch altogether. I checked it tonight, and there’s 3 wires going in to/coming out of the switch. Two wires are red/blue, and one is black
. I found a wiring diagram that seems to match that:
(See near the bottom - positions 1 and 2). If I’m reading this correctly, that should mean that the switch is open (i.e.: not making contact) when the seatbelt
i
s
buckled. So what would prevent me from snipping both blue/red wires and leaving it just like that? Or am I mixed up in thinking that position 2 is actually connected? Also, why would Honda make it so that the switch is closed to indicate that something
isn’t
plugged in? Wouldn’t that be a riskier thing to do, as a break in the wire would indicate a false-safe situation?
Car wiring is weird.
![]() 08/08/2019 at 23:52 |
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Two wires are red/blue, and one is black.
You mean one wire is red/blue, one is blue/red, and one is black, right?
Shouldn’t you want to: 1. C
ut the red/blue wire. 2. J
umper the blue/red wire to the black wire?
![]() 08/09/2019 at 00:49 |
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Can you see any small spring contact that is sticking out, that may not be sticking out enough?
![]() 08/09/2019 at 01:35 |
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The contacts are normally open. Which means they close when the belt is connected. Technically all you’d need to do is scotch-lock the two “positive” wires to the ground wire. But I feel like you could just buy a used buckle for like $10. They’re usually one bolt and one connector. Why not just fix it right?
![]() 08/09/2019 at 10:11 |
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Used Civic parts around here are rare. Honda wants $300 for a whole new assembly. If I can find one, I might be able to swap out just the switch. The problem is that it's a reasonably common problem, and even if I do manage to find a used switch, there's no guarantee how long it'll last.
![]() 08/09/2019 at 10:13 |
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The spring contact is definitely making contact, at least on part of the switch. Last time this happened, I ended up cutting open the small rubber boot around the switch to spray in contact cleaner. I can only see one part of the switch, so I'm thinking the failing part is buried more inside the body of the switch.
![]() 08/09/2019 at 10:14 |
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I think you're right. I'll have to double-check tonight, when I have a bit more light. It was getting dark out when I was checking.
![]() 08/09/2019 at 14:48 |
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Two words: lifetime warranty
![]() 08/10/2019 at 20:18 |
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One word: Canada
Clearly, Honda Canada hates Canadians. They don’t offer a lifetime warranty in Canada. Local dealership wanted $300 for a replacement.
![]() 08/11/2019 at 08:30 |
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Have you tried looking on eBay?
![]() 08/12/2019 at 09:58 |
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That I have not. Good idea!
![]() 08/12/2019 at 10:03 |
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I’ve had much success there over the years. Other sites, such as RockAuto and CarID are helpful as cross references to make sure I have the correct part. If you think of it, drop me a reply and let me know what you find.
![]() 08/12/2019 at 16:12 |
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I h ad a quick peek at eBay this morning. They want $50+. I think I'll give the local wreckers a call. If they want a similar price, I might resort to bypassing the switch.
![]() 08/12/2019 at 16:20 |
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What about the buckle assembly?
![]() 08/14/2019 at 13:02 |
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That is for the buckle assembly. No one sells the switch just on its own. That'd be too easy.
![]() 08/15/2019 at 22:02 |
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Well that sucks.